2003 VINTAGE REPORT
VENETO
The Vineyards of Begali
September 29, 2003
* 15 acres of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot
* Vines are 10 to 17 years old
* 2003 production: 2 tons per acre
* Soil Composition: tuffo, calcareous
* 300 feet above sea level, southeast and southwest exposure
* No irrigation
* No chemical fertilization
The Amarone, Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara harvest was completed at the beginning of September. Conditions during the 2003 growing season: no rain, 100 degrees during the day and about 50 degrees during the night. The rest of the grapes were being harvested by the time we arrived at the Begali winery. The picked grapes were put in baskets and stored in the dehumidification hall before they are crushed and pressed. The Amarone will be crushed in the beginning of December. The grapes for the Recioto will be harvested at beginning of November and crushed at the end of January. The Tigiolo, made from a Rosso Veronese grape were crushed the next day after our arrival, September 30, 2003.
Tasting notes on future releases:
Amarone Monte Ca Bianca 1999 Aromas of molasses and figs. On the palate the wine is a superb balance of fruit and sweet tannins. Production: 250 cases(12 bottles per case).
Valpolicella Superiore 2002 Aromas of blackberries and chocolate. On the palate a nice balance with a smooth finish. Production: 1,400 cases(12 bottles per case).
Tigiolo 2000 Aromas of black cherries and blueberries. On the palate, a rich, complex, well-structured wine with a long finish. Production: 450 cases.(12 bottles per case).
Amarone Classico 1999 Aromas of dark fruits, like plums and figs. On the palate, a full-structured wine with a great harmonious finish. Production: 3,000 cases(12 bottles per case).
Recioto 2001 Aromas of raisins and dried fruit. On the palate the wine is quite sweet, with hints of dryness and a long finish. Total production: 380 cases (12 bottle cases, 500 ml).
The Vineyards of Nicolis
September 29, 2003
Two miles away from Begali is the Nicolis winery. The owner, Beppe Nicolis, showed us his vineyards.
Seccal
* 8 acres: 80% Corvina and 20% Rondinella, and Croatina
* Vines are an average of 23 years old
* 2003 production: 2 tons per acre
* Soil Composition: calcareous and rocky
* 300 feet above sea level, southwest exposure
* No irrigation
* No chemical fertilization
Seccal is a wine considered to be a Valpolicella Superiore traditional to the area. Harvested in mid-September. Conditions during the 2003 growing season: no rain, 100 degrees during the day and about 50 degrees during the night.
Fumane and Giorgio di Nogara
* 80 acres of Croatina, Molinara, Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella.
* Vines are on average, 10 to 25 years old; some 4 year-old vines mixed-in
* 2003 production: 2 tons per acre
* Soil Composition: calcareous and rocky
* 800 feet above sea level, southeast and southwest exposure
* No irrigation
* No chemical fertilization
The harvest was conducted a week prior to our arrival, with 20-25% fewer grapes then in 2001. Nicolis had a problem during the vintages of 1999 and 2002 because of a lost of 60% of the Amarone Grapes due to hail storm. The grapes from the 2003 harvest are dried in dehumidification flats and then all the grapes are crushed in November and for the Amarone single-vineyard Ambrosan, the crush will be held at the end of November.
Tasting notes on future releases:
Valpolicella Classico 2002 Aromas of almonds and chestnuts. On the palate, full bodied with a harmonious finish. Production: 5,000 cases(12 bottles per case).
Seccal 2002 An intense perfume of chestnuts and hazelnuts. On the palate the wine is generous and warm with a long finish. Production: 3,000 cases(12 bottles per case).
Testal 2000 A blend of Corvina, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Aromas of red fruits like plum, cherry and mulberry. On the palate a hint of sweet spice, full bodied with soft tannins and a long lasting finish. Production: 2,000 cases(12 bottles per case).
Amarone Classico 2000 Aromas of spices and concentrated dark fruits. On the palate, the wine is dry, stern, and vigorous. Production: 10,000 cases(12 bottles per case).
Amarone Ambrosan 2000 Aromas of spices and nuts. On the palate, full bodied with an elegant, robust and intense finish. Production: 2,000 cases(12 bottles per case).
PIEMONTE
The Vineyards of Hilberg- Pasquero
We arrived in Piemonte on September 30. We drove directly to Priocca d’Alba to meet my friend Michele Pasquero and his wife Annette Hilberg. This is my 7th visit to these vineyards.
* 15 acres: 2.5 of Brachetto, 10 acres of Barbera and 2.5 acres of Nebbiolo.
* Vines are on average, 8 to 15 years old
* 2003 production: 1 ton per acre
* Soil Composition: marl, and calcareous.
* 700 feet above sea level, southeast and southwest exposures
* No irrigation
* No chemical fertilization
* All organic production
We noticed grafting of Nebbiolo vines over the old Brachetto vines. Conditions during the 2003 growing season: no rain, 100 degrees during the day and about 50 degrees during the night. The vineyards suffered tremendously in the heat, causing a 30% reduction in production from the previous year. In addition, in May the vineyard was damaged by frost and hail. By the time we arrived, the Brachetto for the Hilberg’s Vareij had already been harvested. The Nebbiolo was harvested a day before we arrived and the Barbera on September 27. The Hilberg winery uses a total biodynamic process for its vineyards and in the cellar as well.
Tasting notes on future releases:
Vareij 2002 The aromas were quite closed at the time of tasting, but you could smell hints of flowers. On the palate, a light to medium structured wine. Easy drinking for now. Production: 250 cases(12 bottles per case).
Barbera d’Alba Classico 2002 Aromas of plums and blackberries. On the palate, a light body with very fine tannins; harmonious with a long finish. Production: 450 cases(12 bottles per case).
Barbera Superiore 2001 Aromas of blackberries and violets. On the palate, a medium to full body with a great acidity level. Good balance and long finish. Production: 400 cases (12 bottles per case).
Pedrocha 2001 This Rosso Langhe has a blend of 60% Barbera and 40% Nebbiolo. Aromas of strawberries and violets. On the palate, rich and complex with a harmonious finish. Production: 220 cases(12 bottles per case).
Nebbiolo 2001 Aromas of strawberries, thyme and anise. On the palate fruit forward, full body, rich, sweet tannins. Production: 400 cases(12 bottles per case).
The Vineyards of Scarzello
On the morning of October 1, 2003 we went to see a new addition to the portfolio, Scarzello by Giorgio, in Barolo. Giorgio’s 23 years old son Federico is a student at the school of oenology in Alba and the winemaker of the winery. He toured the vineyards with us.
* 13 acres: Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto
* Vines are on average, 12 to 25 years old
* 2003 production: 1.5 tons per acre
* Soil Composition: marl and calcareous.
* 600 feet above sea level, south exposure in Sarmassa and Papagallo and Rivassi. southeast for Vigna Merenda.
* No irrigation
* No chemical fertilization
Due to hail there will not be any Dolcetto or Barbera in 2002 and only a tiny production of the Nebbiolo. The Nebbiolo was harvested two weeks after our visit. 2001 was a perfect year for this winery. The conditions for the 2003 growing season were as follows: no rain, 100 degrees during the day and 50 degrees as night.
Tasting notes on future releases:
Barolo 1999 Aromas of violets and hints of cherries. On the palate, complex with a good balance of fruit and acidity. Production: 400 cases(12 bottles per case).
Barolo Vigna Merenda 1999 Intense aromas of violets and cherries. On the palate, a harmonious balance of fruit and sweet tannins. A little aggressive, but complex with an excellent finish. Production 250 cases(12 bottles per case).
From Scarzello, we went to see our friends Peter Weimer and his wife Romy Gygax at their tiny estate in Novello, Cascina Ebreo. Before we toured the vineyard or tasted the wine we had lunch and talked politics and world events. Peter has not yet harvested the Nebbiolo. It was harvested 2 weeks from our date with him. The Barbera was harvested a week before.
Cascina Ebreo Vineyards
* 3 acres: Nebbiolo, Barbera
* Vines are on average, 10 to 12 years old
* 2003 production: 1 tons per acre
* Soil Composition: marl and calcareous.
* 650 feet above sea level.
* Southeast exposure
* No irrigation
* No chemical fertilization
Peter Weimer is a cult wine producer. In a good year the winery only produces 600 cases. He makes only 2 wines: Segreto, a blend of Barbera and Nebbiolo and Torbido, his famous, declassified Barolo.
Tasting notes on future releases:
Segreto 1999 Aromas of black cherries, figs and violets. On the palate, the wine starts with a heavy concentration of fruit and high acidity that then leads to rich tannins. Harmonious finish. Total production: 330 cases(12 bottles per case)
Torbido 1999 Aromas of strawberries and violets. On the palate, harmonious, sweet tannins and a fruit bomb. Very long smooth finish. Total production: 200 cases(12 bottles per case)
Segreto 2000 Perfect. Aromas of mocha, violets and black cherries. On the palate, a full, rich body, complex, with great structure. A harmonious finish. Total production: 300 cases (12 bottles per case)
Torbido 2000 Aromas of violets, and hints of cinnamon. On the palate, the wine is round with a full body and layers of concentrated fruit. This wine is going to be bigger than a Barolo. Total production: 210 cases (12 bottles per case)
The Vineyards of Paolo Conterno
From Novello we drove a very short trip to Paolo Conterno meeting with Paolo’s son Giorgio, to discuss the 2003 harvest.
* 18 acres: Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto
* Vines are on average, 15 to 25 years old
* 2003 production: 1.5 tons per acre
* Soil Composition: clay and chalk, calcareous
* 750 feet above sea level.
* The Ginestra cru has a southeast exposure
* No irrigation
* No chemical fertilization
The Dolcetto was harvested at the beginning of September. The Barbera was harvested in mid September and the Nebbiolo on September 26. Conterno lost 30% of the crop due to the excessive heat. Note: Giorgio’s first Barolo vintage was 1990.
Tasting notes on future releases:
Barolo Ginestra 1999 Aromas of violets and strawberries. On the palate, the wine was vigorous, full structured and had a long finish. This wine will be at its peak level in 35 years. Total production 750 cases(12 bottles per case).
Barolo Ginestra 2000 Extraordinary. Aromas of violets and cassis. On the palate, there is a harmonious balance between the fruit and tannins. Will be one of the most extraordinary Barolos of all times, reminiscent of the 1988 vintage. With no doubt this wine can age for 40 years and retain all its flavor and richness.(12 bottles per case).
Barolo Ginestra 2001 Aroma of strawberries and violets. On the palate, a classic example of a Barolo. The wine has a longevity reminiscent of 1958, 1989, and 1996. Wonderfully complex, with great finesse.(12 bottles per case).
The Vineyards of Cavalier Bartolomeo
The next morning we went to Castiglione Falletto to meet with Dario Borgogno, the owner of Cavalier Bartolomeo winery.
* 7.5 acres: Altinasso and Solanotto single vineyards: Nebbiolo and Dolcetto
* Vines are on average, 10 to 12 years old
* 2003 production: 1 ton per acre
* Soil Composition: calcareous and marl.
* 600 feet above sea level.
* Southwest exposure
* No irrigation
* No chemical fertilization
Conditions during the 2003 growing season were similar to all of Italy: no rain 100 degrees during the day and about 45 degrees during the night. Dario blends the Altinasso and Solanotto to make the Barolo Classico. The Dolcetto was harvested two weeks before we arrived. We watched the Nebbiolo harvest – the weather was foggy, with drizzle. The experience was thrilling. The grapes were very ripe, and very mature. The winery’s production averages 1,000 to1,200 cases between the Dolcetto d’Alba, Rosso Langhe and Barolo.
Tasting notes on future releases:
Dolcetto d’Alba 2002 Aromas of hazelnuts and dried fruit. On the palate the wine has a medium to full body, delicate with a smooth finish. Total production: 250 cases(12 bottles per case).
Barolo Solanotto Altinasso 1999 Aromas of violets, strawberries, and dried fruit. On the palate, complex with a big structure and quite similar to the 1997 vintage. Excellent balance. Long finish. Total production: 275 cases(12 bottles per case).
Barolo Solanotto Altinasso 2000 Aromas of strawberries and spices. On the palate, a full-structured wine, with layers of minerals and sweet tannins. This wine has a very good finish and a very long life. Total production: 320 cases(12 bottles per case).
The Vineyards of Ada Nada
We left the Barolo production area for the Barbaresco area in Treiso to meet Giancarlo Nada, owner of the Ada Nada estate.
* 30 acres: Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Moscato
* Vines are on average, 10 to 35 years old
* 2003 production: 2 tons per acre
* Soil Composition: calcareous and marl.
* 600 feet above sea level.
* Southern exposure between two single vineyards.
* No irrigation
* No chemical fertilization
The winery produces 2,000 cases of Barbaresco, 500 to 600 cases of Langhe Rosso Bisbetica. The Cichin vineyard was harvested at the end of September and its green harvest was done in August due to the heat condition. The Valeirano vineyard was harvested on October 6.
Tasting notes on future releases:
Barbaresco Valeirano 2000 Aromas of nuts and fresh figs. On the palate, round body with sweet tannins, harmonious with a clean, long finish. This Barbaresco can age for 20 to 30 years. Production: 750 cases(12 bottles per case).
Barbaresco Cichin 2000 Aromas of raspberries and blackberries. On the palate, concentrated fruit with good balance, very harmonious. Production: 850 cases(12 bottles per case).
Bisbetica 2000 Aromas of chestnuts and violets. This wine is a blend of Barbera and Nebbiolo. On the palate, delicate balance, sweet tannins, and a smooth finish. Production: 350 cases (12 bottles per case).
The Vineyards of Fattoria San Giuliano
Ten miles from Ada Nada is Fattoria San Giuliano, in Neive. Giulio Pastura, owner and winemaker of Fattoria San Giuliano welcomed us with a batonage asking us for help!!! He just finished the harvest and the crush and had too much to do.
* 18 acres: Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Arneis, Moscato
* Vines are on average, 8 to 20 years old
* 2003 production: 1.5 tons per acre
* Soil Composition: calcareous and marl.
* 650 feet above sea level.
* Southern exposure between two single vineyards.
* No irrigation
* No chemical fertilization
The vineyards were now totally empty of grapes so we went to the cantina.
Tasting notes on future releases:
Dolcetto d’Alba 2002 Aromas of cherries. On the palate, good balance and a nice finish. Production: 700 cases(12 bottles per case).
Barbera d’Alba Classico 2002 Aromas of raspberries and licorice. On the palate, the wine is approachable with a good structure, good level of acidity and a nice finish. Total production 700 cases(12 bottles per case).
III Millennio 2001 (50% Barbera, 50% Nebbiolo). Aromas of strawberries and violets. On the palate the wine has a delicate balance of all the elements. Smooth finish. Production 250 cases(12 bottles per case).
Barbaresco 2000 Aromas of violets and roasted meat. On the palate, the wine is approachable with a great finesse of fruits. Harmonious finish. Long life expected. Production 450 cases(12 bottles per case).
Moscato d’Asti 2002 Despite the very bad conditions of the 2002 vintage, the Moscato was quite aromatic with the generous characteristics of the Moscato grape. On the palate, fruit forward, with low acidity. Production: 500 cases (12 bottles per case). A great glass after a long journey.
I hope this will be of use to the readers. This report was given honestly, without any bias. Only the appreciation of great wine, as a tribute to the makers of great wines.
Thank you.
Dino Tantawi
President, Vignaioli Selection